Netherlands travel guide

The Dutch may be the tallest people in the world, but their chocolate-box homes with their bottle-green shutters and steep little stairways are by contrast diminutive, giving much of this country a model-village appeal. Getting here is easy. Schiphol, one of Europe’s busiest airports, connects Amsterdam to much of the globe, while the Eurostar now offers direct services from London, whisking passengers to Rotterdam or Amsterdam in about four hours.
Once you arrive, the country is simple to navigate, thanks to an extensive cycling infrastructure and excellent public transportation network. And since English is virtually a second language in the Netherlands and the Dutch enjoy speaking it, you’re less likely to find yourself in a fix.
The Netherlands’ famous permissiveness also makes for a relaxed stay, and Amsterdam’s red light district is certainly a must-see, although the introduction of fines for antisocial behaviour aimed at partying tourists taking it too far suggest that Dutch tolerance has its limits. As the first country to recognise same-sex marriage, the Netherlands is seen as a haven for LGBTQ+ visitors, who can also find a lively bar and club scene in the largest cities.
Culture lovers are also in the right place as, despite the Netherlands’ small size, its art treasures are vast. See Escher and Vermeer in Den Haag, Bosch in ‘s-Hertogenbosch, Mondrian in Amersfoort, and Van Gogh and Rembrandt in Amsterdam. In the capital, wonderful restaurants, including a glut of hip vegan ventures, will satisfy foodies, while those favouring traditional comfort food such as gooey deep-fried bitterballen and crispy kroketten will find them in almost every bruincafé in the country.
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In Amsterdam, explore the cute shops and restaurants of the nearby Nine Streets or the villagey Jordaan, take a boat ride down the Amstel, or stop for a drink and traditional Dutch borrel snack at one of the canal district’s many pavement cafes. World-class museums, such as the Van Gogh* and the Rijksmuseum*, deservedly draw crowds, but for a broad sweep of Dutch art history, visit Rotterdam’s gigantic mirrored Depot, the award-winning depository for the Boijmans Van Beuningen museum’s vast collection and the perfect introduction to the city’s eye-popping modern architecture.
Elsewhere kitesurfers flock to the windy beaches which stretch almost uninterrupted along the Netherlands’ west coast, while the grassy sand dunes beyond them, dotted with abandoned Second World War bunkers, are popular with walkers. Just inland, the magnificent hyacinth, narcissus and tulip fields surrounding the famous Keukenhof gardens* burst into colour from late March to early May. If the bulbs have already bloomed, don’t despair — many national parks, such as the Veluwe, also put on a show, turning a dramatic purple when the heather blossoms in mid-summer. You can also venture north to the windy salt marshes of the West Frisian Islands, sadly threatened by rising sea levels, but a mecca for birdwatchers, and carpeted in nectar-rich sea lavender and heather in summer.
A more temperate climate can be found in the country’s southernmost tip, where you will hear the singing Limburgish dialect. The vineyards, half-timbered houses and hills provide a bucolic escape, while a chic weekend away can be enjoyed in Maastricht*, a melting pot of Belgian, Dutch and German culture due to its frontier position.
Many people visiting the Netherlands for the first time also head straight for Amsterdam’s Anne Frank House*, a moving memorial to the diarist and to the Jewish experience of the Nazi occupation.
For visitors to the capital, elegant boutique hotels in 17th century canal houses offer the quintessential Amsterdam* experience, but don’t normally come cheap. More affordable options with spacious rooms and stirring views can now be found in many larger franchises popping up to the east of the city or in its trendy regenerated harbour districts.
The Dutch are a nation of campers, so campsites and holiday parks dominate the accommodation options outside the cities, with B&Bs and characterful cottages in short supply. Wherever there’s something to do, from the rolling countryside of South Limburg to the windswept Wadden Islands, the uniform chalets of a Landal, Roompot or Center Parcs have got there first. Many larger sites have extensive facilities including swimming pools and petting zoos, making them a great option for families, while nature lovers may like some of the new eco-builds out there, such as the wood-panelled, energy-neutral island houses that have sprung up in an isolated wildlife reserve in Flevoland.
In a country with the record for the most bikes per capita, sporty outdoors options are unsurprisingly everywhere. Surfers and swimmers will love the stilted beach houses on Zeeland’s golden sands, while a houseboat moored on one of the peaceful Frisian lakes makes a perfect base for sailors and paddleboarders.
Despite the Netherlands having ingeniously reclaimed much of its land from beneath from the sea and lakes, a broad body of water still slices through the country from the north coast down to Amsterdam. Becalmed since 1932 by the formidable Afsluitdijk (a 32km-long dam and road closing off the North Sea and connecting North Holland with Friesland), this water now forms the IJsselmeer and Markermeer lakes, home to some of the prettiest fishing villages in the country.
Of these, Enkhuizen, with its medieval and Ducth “golden age” monuments, pretty terraced cafés and grassy beach, is well worth an overnight stay. For the ideal introduction to traditional Dutch life, take a ferry ride from the harbour to the open-air part of the city’s Zuiderzee Museum* (open April to October) . It’s a picture-perfect recreation of a traditional village that time-warps visitors back to the 19th century and features the obligatory windmill. Tiny cottages with boats tied up at the end of handkerchief-sized gardens sit among ateliers demonstrating age-old crafts such as sail making. Visitors can try out time-honoured games and handicrafts, dress up in traditional clothing and, when tummies rumble, sample some freshly smoked herring.
Plan your trip for April and you’ll be in prime tulip season. April 27 is Koningsdag, a giant national street party to celebrate the King’s birthday.
How many days do I need in the Netherlands?At just over four hours’ drive corner to corner, the Netherlands’s diminutive size means you can pack a lot into a short time. Amsterdam is popular with weekenders, who can put pressure on the most obvious attractions, so book well in advance. A more three-dimensional view of the capital warrants the best part of a week; make it two to explore the coast and countryside too.
Is the Netherlands expensive?Accommodation in the Netherlands is quite expensive, even in the holiday parks. A house boat can easily cost €1,000 a week, as can a beach chalet, even outside high season. Doubles average at about €200 a night in the capital’s hotels, but most budgets are catered for, especially if you visit low-season. Expect to pay around €15 for museum entry. A simple meal costs around €30.
What should I know before travelling to the Netherlands?Payments tend to be cashless in the Netherlands, but credit cards are normally accepted. Cannabis is illegal, even if its consumption in coffee shops is tolerated and private use is mostly ignored. Cyclists rule the road here. Nothing marks you out more as a tourist than wandering into a bike lane (often coloured red) while looking at a map on your phone.
Inspired to visit the Netherlands but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from Tui Holidays* and Expedia*.
• Discover holiday packages to Amsterdam*• Discover holiday packages to Zeeland*• Discover tours in Netherlands*
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